Bethlehem & Hebron Tour (Part 1)

We were picked up later than scheduled in a van by a man who said he didn’t know if he was our guide or driver. We were a bit leery of what was happening until we stopped and were told to switch vehicles and another man introduced himself as our tour guide. Unfortunately, the areas we were visiting today were not sweet peaceful Bible lands like one might imagine.

Our guide was born in the Arabian peninsula, grew up in Nigeria and when his family moved back to Palestine he studied at a university in Europe before moving back to Palestine.  His family, who are well respected Catholics, left to live in the States and Canada. He explained to us how the Oslo Agreement in 1994 divided the Palestinian land into three sections: A) Full Palestinian control (West Bank and Gaza Strip), B) Palestinians live there but don’t have full control, and C) Palestinians live there and Israel has full control. Because of this our guide, who is a Palestinian Christian, was not able to cross a gate to meet us at our apartment because it was outside of the zone he can be in (he used to give tours in Jerusalem but has since been banned being deemed "too political"). These areas are blocked off by gates and the Israeli government decides when the gates will close and it’s not consistent. When a gate closes the people inside cannot drive out, but they can leave by foot. Because of these gates we had to make several changes in our driving plan for the day as we would head towards a road only to find it gated off. There is no detour sign when this happens, it’s just blocked and one needs to turn around and find a new way to their destination. Israel would say this is done for "safety" and Palestinians would say it is only to make their life difficult.

As we drove we passed Herodium, Herod’s fortress that he had built on top of a man-made mountain. This is the place where he had the babies killed. Our guide explains that it gives historical insight to Matthew 17:20, where Jesus explains that if one has faith the size of a mustard seed, he can move mountains. The fortress is made of limestone, which we learn is also called “Palestinian gold” and we learn that Palestinian limestone was used in building both JFK and Heathrow airports.

Out the window we notice patches of buildings with red roofs. We are told that these are the settlements filled with Eastern Europeans who have hard lives and search for Jewish lineage and then come here and receive discounted living from the Israeli government.  There are basically two types of settlers: economic or idealistic.  Many of the economic settlers are people who use this to get a leg up on life but they dont really care much of Israel or its cause.  But the impact of their life choices is that it forces them to become radically pro-Israel while they are taking over Palestinian land.  The idealistic settler is one who views the holy land as their God-given right and believes that no one else should live here. Our guide explains to us that Israelis treat Christians and Muslims the same because they are viewed as Palestinian. In the 1940’s the Christian population was around 40% and currently it is thought to be about 1.2% in all of Israel/Palestine, meaning there are only roughly about 50,000 Christians in the lands of the Bible.

Our first stop is Hebron, the largest city in Palestine and where King David ruled when only in charge of one tribe before ultimately moving to Jerusalem and ruling all 12 tribes. Hebron is currently the largest city in Palestine and has a different classification than the rest of Israel. Hebron is divide into two zones H1 and H2.  H1 is controlled by the Palestinian Authority and H2, roughly 20% of the city, is controlled by Israel and considered a war-zone.  In the old city of Hebron we learned that there is an Israeli Settlement made of up roughly 500 settlers who are protected by 2000 soliders!  This is one of the toughest areas in all of Israel.  Here we walked around this boarded up streets and witnessed what life was like for the Palestinians who have hung onto life here. Palestinians are allowed to live on the ground level of buildings. If they live above the ground level, they risk constantly having their place occupied as even a 5-minute trip to the fruit stand around the corner provides an opportunity for settlers to come in and take over. The Palestinians are constantly watched from watch towers and have had to install wire fence above the ground level from a building on one side of the street to the other in order to keep garbage, waste water, etc. that is thrown on them by the settlers above.

Collection of garbage thrown down by settlers on Palestinian store owners

This was absolutely heart-breaking to observe these people trying to hang on to what they believe is their land and being treated like animals.  We will never forget being watched by guards above as we walked under fencing strewn with garbage and visited with one of the few shop owners left on the street. This city is quickly becoming a ghost town and stencils abound promoting people to stay. Walls will randomly be put in the middle of a building, which prevents people from passing or reaching a necessary entrance, so the Palestinians have to sneak ladders across roofs so that they can still get to homes and family.  With the many rules and regulations such as curfews and not having visitors in one’s home, life is very challenging to say the least, which is why most have left. This is only the case in the "old city" of Hebron. The rest of the city, which is vast, consists of normal people living normal lives.

Stencil found all around the old city of Hebron (which is a ghost town now)

Ghost town - old city of Hebron

Walking through market. Most shops closed. Notice the fence ceiling which protect the owners from things being thrown on them by Settlers.

Buying Fresh Juice in old city Hebron

We visited Al Ibrahim Mosque, which is actually a mosque and a synagogue built in the time of Herod the Great with large limestone blocks. There is an opening to the building on each side, one for the Palestinians, and on the opposite side for the Israelis. Openings are used exclusively for each religion at different points and times of the day. Our guide took us in on the Palestinian side and we were able to see the monument for Sarah, which was in one room, and then the monuments for Isaac and Rebecca. Abraham’s monument can be accessed by both sides but there is bulletproof glass between the sides in the viewing area. Here this is supposed to be a place to remember the patriarch that Muslims and Jewish people have in common and instead the tension here is unbelievable. Once we existed the Muslim side we had to pass through airport-like security with Israeli guards carrying large guns into the Jewish side of the building.  Our guide was not allowed to go with us into the Synagogue. According to what we read inside the synagogue portion of the building, the Jewish people also claim that the entrance to the orginal cave/tomb of Abraham is on their side, but it is blocked off.

Heading into Synagogue

Abraham's tomb

Isaac and Rebecca's tombs

Abraham's tomb - bullet proof glass on right

Bullet proof glass next to Abraham's tomb separating the Mosque from the Synagogue

An example of how tragic this is is visible in the 1994 occurrence of a Jewish physician from Chicago who came into the mosque undercover and shot 24 people. As people fled, the guards, who thought a riot was forming, killed 40 more, including the physician. Afterwards the Jewish people made a statue in praise of the physician while the physician’s wife tried to sue because her husband had been shot! It was this massacre that led to the H1/H2 structure that exists today.

Hebron was eye-opening experience and many of the tour groups we conversed at later part of our trip were not allowed to come here.  Its important to note that we never felt unsafe or threatened in any way but the tension in the air could sure be felt.  Seeing this side of Israel is certainly different than anything western media shows and certainly gave us empathy for what growing up Palestinian would be like.  We were so grateful to our guide and ability to explain the conflict and show us real life for some of the Palestinian people in a well rounded, courteous manner.  He is the last of his family to remain here and believes that he is "called" to help bridge the gap and promote peace as his service to Christ.  At the end of the day, most people here (both Palestinian and Israelis) just want to raise their kids and live peacefully. Most people we met have friends on both sides of the fence and accuse the "old" leadership of perpetuating the conflict.  It was incredibly educational experience for us to see.  

After this sobering and eye-opening experience, we drove to a glass blowing shop and observed some people making vases as Hebron is known for their glass blowing. "Hebron glass" is sold all over Israel and is quite cheap here compared to Jerusalem. Our oldest son even got to try his hand at this skill. We then stopped for lunch at a place we’d compare to Subway, but instead of subs it was schwarma. No, we did not have the camel meat that Hebron is apparently known for, but we did see some at the butcher shops we passed along the road!

Our oldest son trying his skill at glass-blowing

Camel for sale at the butcher shop