Jerusalem to Nazareth

We spent our last full day in Jerusalem at a restaurant doing school.  The kids did well with this, but it was unfortunate because it was a nice day and our previous two days of tours had been really chilly and rainy.  We also still had places we would’ve liked to have visited in Jerusalem, but school has taken an unintended back-seat and we felt it was just as important to have a bit of a down day and catch up on writing and journaling to process all that we’ve been able to see.  Our time in Jerusalem was faster and fuller than we’d desired, we realized we’d pushed the kids a bit too hard and we’ve struggled to be patient and grace-filled as these sites are high on our list.  The reality is that everyone’s just been having a rough time getting by and processing and dealing with the reality of what we are seeing first-hand has been a struggle.

On our way to dinner we were so excited to pass an outdoor-gear-type shop and were able to get our daughter some badly needed new Keens.  Not only did hers put out an odor that could wilt flowers but they were too small as well. Mom and our son were also thrilled to get new water bottles as we have one son who seems to lose any water bottle he touches on this trip (including those he borrows)!

We met up with the sister of the people whose home we visited for the Shabbat of a Lifetime.  Mom had really enjoyed visiting with Rachel and our daughter was excited to have kids to be with, so when Rachel invited our family to join her family for dinner, we were thrilled!  We had a fun night of getting to know each other and enjoyed learning about their life in Jerusalem and getting their perspective on some of the circumstances we’d learned about while here.  Rachel and her husband Jonny have been curious about traveling abroad with their kids, so we hope that we were able to inspire them that it’s doable and totally worth it.  Once the kids warmed up to each other they had a great time playing together and were hard to separate when it came time to go.  They were even so gracious as to pick up the check.  We continue to be astounded by the kindness of strangers as we travel. 

Fun dinner with new friends who dream of traveling with their family

Bedtime that night was rough and we decided to let everyone sleep in and dad could pick up our rental vehicle and we would just have to see what all we were able to accomplish on our drive to Tiberius, The Sea of Gallilee.

It was about noon the following day when we pulled into Nazareth and learned that we were supposed to have a reservation to tour the Nazareth Village.  They were able to fit us in a couple of hours, which actually ended up working out well as we were able to walk to the market street and grab schwarma and visit the Church of the Annunciation.  This is the church that was built over the area where the angel appeared to the Virgin Mary and told her that she was going to have a child.

An entrance to the Church of the Annunciation with a statue of the young Mary above

The cave where the angel Gabriel visited Mary to tell her she would be with child (Luke 1:26-38)

Beautiful ceiling/window at the Church of the Annunciation

In front of the Church of the Annunciation with its Latin :)

Many countries have artwork of the Virgin Mary and Child displayed,
we found it interesting to see how different nationalities depict how they might have looked

Upon returning to the Nazareth Village we joined our tour group and immediately connected with a fun couple from New Zealand that were traveling the world for 2 years serving with different missionary organizations.  We had a great guide and were able to experience and learn what life might have been like in Nazareth during the days of Jesus when there were estimated only about 400 people living there.  Today there are more than 70,000 people living in Nazareth, 100% are Arab and 30% of them are Arab Christian.  The Nazareth Village is as much a tourist attraction as it is a place to educate the locals about who Jesus is and be a witness.

Original well in the top left corner and place where grapes would've been crushed and the juice
dripped down the small ravine into the well in the shadow at the bottom.  Sandals were not words when
they crushed grapes to prevent the seeds from being crushed and causing bitterness

Kids with an "actor" and donkey at the Nazareth Village

The most interesting take away we had from this tour was learning about the olive press and how it related to several of Jesus' teachings.  Olive trees are abundant in this area of the world and black olives are considered ripe and the oil is in these, while green olives don't have much oil so they are used for eating.  The olive press is actually a huge wheel powered by a donkey that spins and turns olives into a paste. Our youngest son was able to power the wheel around and show our group just how turns.  The paste is then placed in baskets with a hole in the bottom and crushed with a lever to to squeeze the oil out.  The first squeeze is oil used for the temple while the second is for eating and the third is for lamps. The significance of the olives being pressed and then squeezed again 3 times is insightful when one considers that Gethsemane is translated "oil press," and on the Mount of Olives, Jesus prayed three times regarding God's salvation plan to press and crush him for our iniquities.

G working the olive press that would make paste

From there learned about how tools and clothes were made during Christ's time and the tour wrapped up in a synagogue similar to the type of building Jesus would have read the scroll of Isaiah in (Luke 4:16-30).

G using a tool that caused the piece of wood in his hand to act like a drill

Our guide showing the naturally dyed yarns in his left hand with the shell that
created the unique and exquisite purple dye in his right hand.  Referring to Isaiah 1:18 and
how people would've understood when Isaiah said that our sins are as scarlet but will be
washed as white as snow, that this is impossible with man but that it is possible with God.

Our guide holding a scroll in the "synagogue" building

By the time we parted ways with our New Zealand friends, we decided to head straight to the Sea of Galilee.  Our Airbnb host had contacted us before we arrived and gave us the option of being upgraded to an apartment that was closer to the center of town, so we were curious what this was going to be like.  Unfortunately the place was cramped beyond belief, two people couldn’t pass each other anywhere in the tiny apartment and we didn’t even have room to unpack our backpacks during our 3 nights there.  The day having gotten off to a slow start and everyone doing the best they could do have patience and good attitudes, we adapted the goofy sayings on the walls of our new apartment as our go to moto and tried to keep a good sense of humor and perspective about our situation.

Well thought out saying on the wall of our tight apartment - ha!

At dinner when asked what’s been learned about life in the Bible days that’s brought depth to your understanding of Scripture, here were our answers:

Dad – words applied to local times but we can still relate

Mom – Example of olives being pressed three times related to Jesus being pressed and crushed, praying 3x at Gethsemane

C- Nazareth was a bad place, need to listen to our Youth Pastor Terry’s sermon “Straight Out of Nazareth”

CB – from our family devotions of Jesus’s parables, knowing that the mustard seed wasn’t the smallest seed people knew but it grew to be one of the biggest trees

G – The olive press was interesting

SJ – I just listen to what everyone says

Bethlehem & Hebron Tour (Part 2)

After lunch we headed to a refugee camp. This camp is home to approximately 5000 people displaced from the 1948 boundry and Israeli construction. At first these displaced people lived in tents for roughly three years until the UN came in and started housing them. This means that some have been refugees here for over 60 years! As we walked the streets and observed the graffiti and murals, we also saw UN buildings, doors covered in bullet holes, and young children running the streets. On the main street is a section with names of displaced people under the title “We Will Return.” There is also a mural, read from right to left, depicting the progression of these people’s lives as farmers to being forced from their land, living in tents, and holding onto the hope of returning to their land. The symbol of a key refers to one of the few things these Palestinians took with them when they were displaced, and many still have their old keys as they hope to return home. Another symbol is the number “194,” which refers to the UN Resolution for Palestinian return and compensation, but this never happened. Palestinians were to receive 22% of land and currently Level A is only 20%. Included in the mural is a church next to a mosque to show that Christians and Muslims live peaceable here (unlike the media presents).

Mural with names of those who lost homes

"Here only tiger can survive....where only birds & butterfly are free"

Section of the mural in the refugee camp

Story telling mural in refuge camp - church & mosque represent religions living peaceable side by side

Under key symbol in the refugee camp

We rode a few blocks away and get out to walk along a large wall that the Israeli government started building in 2002 in order to make an Israeli road between two settlements (the road connects Hebron and Bethlehem to Jerusalem). Israel claims this is needed for security purposes. When the wall is built it will be more than 900km (100% longer than the green line on the territory maps, because it zigzags through neighborhoods). Along the wall are posters of displaced Palestinian’s who’ve turned the wall into a stage for giving voice to their situation. It is heartbreaking to read some of these stories. As we walk our guide points out a smaller wall that was built around an olive tree, as olive trees are considered to be valuable and worth building around rather than uprooting. He also points out that any building that is near the wall and taller than it is considered to be a threat, and that people living in these buildings are not allowed to live above the 3rd floor. Additionally, there is a house that must keep the shades closed at all times and not use the portion of the house above the wall. Also along the wall people have used graffiti to make their voice known. The boys got the opportunity to leave their mark on the wall.

A city wall built around an olive tree so as not to uproot it

Settlers Highway through Palestinian land - only Israelis may use the road
and they have constructed a massive wall around it in Palestinian lands

This home (built years before the wall) is not allowed to open its windows or use the floors
above the height of the wall because of proximity to the settlers highway

G leaving his mark, "A Cross and the word 'HOPE'"

Leaving some hope on the wall

As we drove towards Bethlehem we noticed USAid signs and asked how the US was viewed in all of this. We were told that people here like Hezbollah and Hamas because they help and support them. Technically the Palestinian government is ruled by the PLO, but Hamas won the last election in Hebron, which shows just how desperate these people are. While there is some USAid here, some people won’t accept US money because the US also supports Israel. Our guide stopped and insisted we try knafa for dessert. This was kind of him, and much different than we’d expected as he’d been talking about getting us a sweet treat. It was some type of melted cheese with a fried topping of bread crumbs on the top. Different…

Every place has to have a version of "Starbucks"

We moved on to Bethlehem, where tensions are lower and we visited the Church of the Nativity. We learned how the Persians attacked and destroyed all churches in Israel expect this one because of a picture of the magi that is in the church. The Persians saw this picture and thought that if their kings showed respect here and were respected in this place, that they should be respectful also, and the church was spared. We were able to go down in a cave-area to see an altar with a large star in the floor under it which supposedly marks the place where Jesus was born to the Virgin Mary. We learned that this was most likely in the back of the stable, unlike our manger displays, because Mary would’ve wanted privacy, it would’ve been cold and the back of the barn area would’ve been warmer, and that people in those days often brought their animals in to provide warmth and protection and the animals were typically at the front of the room.

Small door forces one to bow in reverence at the Church of the Nativity

Star on floor marks area where Jesus was born

Unfortunately, the Church of the Nativity has its own areas of contention. The church is shared by Catholics, Greek Orthodox, and Armenians. Every year December 31st is cleaning day and if any water is splashed across the denomination line, that priest will get beat up. Also, each denomination owns a part of the cave and has specific time for prayer. If the designated person for that denomination is late to prayer, the denomination will lose it’s right to prayer in the cave forever.

Interestingly, this church commemorating the birth of our Savior, which Christians celebrate on December 25th, has three different dates for celebrating this event. The Catholics celebrate on December 25, the Greek Orthodox, which are 85% of Israeli Christians, celebrate on January 7, and the Armenians celebrate on January 18th.

Our last stop of the day was to the Shepherd’s Field. Not only is this the location of the fields where the shepherds were watching their sheep by night when the angel appeared to announce the Savior’s birth (Luke 2: 8-18), but this is also Boaz’s field that Ruth gleaned wheat from in the book of Ruth. These fields were actually owned by our guide’s family at one point in history. It was interesting to learn how shepherds disciplined a stray sheep by twisting it’s leg after finding it and causing their to be pain in the leg so that when the sheep tries to walk it winces. The shepherd will then carry the sheep and provide for all its needs for roughly 10 days until it is healed, and during these 10 or so days, the shepherd is building a relationship of trust and care with the sheep so that it will not go astray again. Again, with the positioning of the animals in a pen or cave, our guide explained that Jesus’s illustration in John 10 would’ve been something that the shepherds would’ve completely related to.

Fountain in the Shepherds field

Selfie with our guide

There was a lot to process in everything that we’d observed during this unforgettable tour – not only from a Biblical perspective, but from a human rights and historical perspective. It was not an easy day, but we all agreed that we were glad to have this unique insight into these lands. Many tourists don’t visit Bethlehem or Hebron as they are a ways outside of Jerusalem and viewed as risky. It is truly unfortunate as they miss such a big picture of what modern day life is like in Israel, and what the media is not telling.

Bethlehem & Hebron Tour (Part 1)

We were picked up later than scheduled in a van by a man who said he didn’t know if he was our guide or driver. We were a bit leery of what was happening until we stopped and were told to switch vehicles and another man introduced himself as our tour guide. Unfortunately, the areas we were visiting today were not sweet peaceful Bible lands like one might imagine.

Our guide was born in the Arabian peninsula, grew up in Nigeria and when his family moved back to Palestine he studied at a university in Europe before moving back to Palestine.  His family, who are well respected Catholics, left to live in the States and Canada. He explained to us how the Oslo Agreement in 1994 divided the Palestinian land into three sections: A) Full Palestinian control (West Bank and Gaza Strip), B) Palestinians live there but don’t have full control, and C) Palestinians live there and Israel has full control. Because of this our guide, who is a Palestinian Christian, was not able to cross a gate to meet us at our apartment because it was outside of the zone he can be in (he used to give tours in Jerusalem but has since been banned being deemed "too political"). These areas are blocked off by gates and the Israeli government decides when the gates will close and it’s not consistent. When a gate closes the people inside cannot drive out, but they can leave by foot. Because of these gates we had to make several changes in our driving plan for the day as we would head towards a road only to find it gated off. There is no detour sign when this happens, it’s just blocked and one needs to turn around and find a new way to their destination. Israel would say this is done for "safety" and Palestinians would say it is only to make their life difficult.

As we drove we passed Herodium, Herod’s fortress that he had built on top of a man-made mountain. This is the place where he had the babies killed. Our guide explains that it gives historical insight to Matthew 17:20, where Jesus explains that if one has faith the size of a mustard seed, he can move mountains. The fortress is made of limestone, which we learn is also called “Palestinian gold” and we learn that Palestinian limestone was used in building both JFK and Heathrow airports.

Out the window we notice patches of buildings with red roofs. We are told that these are the settlements filled with Eastern Europeans who have hard lives and search for Jewish lineage and then come here and receive discounted living from the Israeli government.  There are basically two types of settlers: economic or idealistic.  Many of the economic settlers are people who use this to get a leg up on life but they dont really care much of Israel or its cause.  But the impact of their life choices is that it forces them to become radically pro-Israel while they are taking over Palestinian land.  The idealistic settler is one who views the holy land as their God-given right and believes that no one else should live here. Our guide explains to us that Israelis treat Christians and Muslims the same because they are viewed as Palestinian. In the 1940’s the Christian population was around 40% and currently it is thought to be about 1.2% in all of Israel/Palestine, meaning there are only roughly about 50,000 Christians in the lands of the Bible.

Our first stop is Hebron, the largest city in Palestine and where King David ruled when only in charge of one tribe before ultimately moving to Jerusalem and ruling all 12 tribes. Hebron is currently the largest city in Palestine and has a different classification than the rest of Israel. Hebron is divide into two zones H1 and H2.  H1 is controlled by the Palestinian Authority and H2, roughly 20% of the city, is controlled by Israel and considered a war-zone.  In the old city of Hebron we learned that there is an Israeli Settlement made of up roughly 500 settlers who are protected by 2000 soliders!  This is one of the toughest areas in all of Israel.  Here we walked around this boarded up streets and witnessed what life was like for the Palestinians who have hung onto life here. Palestinians are allowed to live on the ground level of buildings. If they live above the ground level, they risk constantly having their place occupied as even a 5-minute trip to the fruit stand around the corner provides an opportunity for settlers to come in and take over. The Palestinians are constantly watched from watch towers and have had to install wire fence above the ground level from a building on one side of the street to the other in order to keep garbage, waste water, etc. that is thrown on them by the settlers above.

Collection of garbage thrown down by settlers on Palestinian store owners

This was absolutely heart-breaking to observe these people trying to hang on to what they believe is their land and being treated like animals.  We will never forget being watched by guards above as we walked under fencing strewn with garbage and visited with one of the few shop owners left on the street. This city is quickly becoming a ghost town and stencils abound promoting people to stay. Walls will randomly be put in the middle of a building, which prevents people from passing or reaching a necessary entrance, so the Palestinians have to sneak ladders across roofs so that they can still get to homes and family.  With the many rules and regulations such as curfews and not having visitors in one’s home, life is very challenging to say the least, which is why most have left. This is only the case in the "old city" of Hebron. The rest of the city, which is vast, consists of normal people living normal lives.

Stencil found all around the old city of Hebron (which is a ghost town now)

Ghost town - old city of Hebron

Walking through market. Most shops closed. Notice the fence ceiling which protect the owners from things being thrown on them by Settlers.

Buying Fresh Juice in old city Hebron

We visited Al Ibrahim Mosque, which is actually a mosque and a synagogue built in the time of Herod the Great with large limestone blocks. There is an opening to the building on each side, one for the Palestinians, and on the opposite side for the Israelis. Openings are used exclusively for each religion at different points and times of the day. Our guide took us in on the Palestinian side and we were able to see the monument for Sarah, which was in one room, and then the monuments for Isaac and Rebecca. Abraham’s monument can be accessed by both sides but there is bulletproof glass between the sides in the viewing area. Here this is supposed to be a place to remember the patriarch that Muslims and Jewish people have in common and instead the tension here is unbelievable. Once we existed the Muslim side we had to pass through airport-like security with Israeli guards carrying large guns into the Jewish side of the building.  Our guide was not allowed to go with us into the Synagogue. According to what we read inside the synagogue portion of the building, the Jewish people also claim that the entrance to the orginal cave/tomb of Abraham is on their side, but it is blocked off.

Heading into Synagogue

Abraham's tomb

Isaac and Rebecca's tombs

Abraham's tomb - bullet proof glass on right

Bullet proof glass next to Abraham's tomb separating the Mosque from the Synagogue

An example of how tragic this is is visible in the 1994 occurrence of a Jewish physician from Chicago who came into the mosque undercover and shot 24 people. As people fled, the guards, who thought a riot was forming, killed 40 more, including the physician. Afterwards the Jewish people made a statue in praise of the physician while the physician’s wife tried to sue because her husband had been shot! It was this massacre that led to the H1/H2 structure that exists today.

Hebron was eye-opening experience and many of the tour groups we conversed at later part of our trip were not allowed to come here.  Its important to note that we never felt unsafe or threatened in any way but the tension in the air could sure be felt.  Seeing this side of Israel is certainly different than anything western media shows and certainly gave us empathy for what growing up Palestinian would be like.  We were so grateful to our guide and ability to explain the conflict and show us real life for some of the Palestinian people in a well rounded, courteous manner.  He is the last of his family to remain here and believes that he is "called" to help bridge the gap and promote peace as his service to Christ.  At the end of the day, most people here (both Palestinian and Israelis) just want to raise their kids and live peacefully. Most people we met have friends on both sides of the fence and accuse the "old" leadership of perpetuating the conflict.  It was incredibly educational experience for us to see.  

After this sobering and eye-opening experience, we drove to a glass blowing shop and observed some people making vases as Hebron is known for their glass blowing. "Hebron glass" is sold all over Israel and is quite cheap here compared to Jerusalem. Our oldest son even got to try his hand at this skill. We then stopped for lunch at a place we’d compare to Subway, but instead of subs it was schwarma. No, we did not have the camel meat that Hebron is apparently known for, but we did see some at the butcher shops we passed along the road!

Our oldest son trying his skill at glass-blowing

Camel for sale at the butcher shop

Jerusalem Walking Tour - Part 2

We entered the Old City through The Lion’s Gate, also known as St. Stephen’s Gate.  This is the location where Stephen, the first martyr, was stoned (Acts 7:54-60).  At one point there were two pools here to wash the sheep that weren’t pure enough to be used in the temple.  Eventually new pools were made for these sheep and they were called the Palestinian pools and the two original pools became the place where lambs were washed before they were sacrificed.  The actual Pools of Bethesda themselves are ruins now, but much larger than we expected.

City of Jerusalem:  On the left is the Dome of the Rock and on the right is the Lion's Gate section of the wall

Lions Gate  - see the Lions on the wall

Pools of Bethesda

On our way to lunch we walked into a school that some believe was originally Herod's Palace where Jesus went on trial. In our spare time we've been listening to The Holy Land Revealed, one of The Great Courses class that presented evidence that this might not be the exact site. So while we may not know exactly the original purpose of this building, the upper level of the school provides some of the best views of Jerusalem and the Dome of the Rock.  

Taken from the school

Dome of the Rock

Having spent the morning walking in the wind and rain we were ready to warm up and get some lunch. We entered the Old City where we got completely taken for a tourist lunch, which while good was crazy expensive and not what we would have done had we fully understood. But, not wanting it to wreck the day, we pushed on despite the annoyance.

After lunch we continued walking the Via Dolorosa with the Stations of the Cross. In the Old City we did many of the same stops as we had on the Palestinian tour, but we received the Christian perspective, which resonated better with us, although we found it enriching to have been exposed to both worldviews.

A cross along the Via Delarosa

The Via Dolorosa ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, and we appreciated learning more details about the different areas inside this place which many believe commemorates the place where Jesus was crucified and buried. The control of this church is a complicated arrangement that has not changed for 160 years and is shared between the Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox and Roman Catholic, and to a lesser degree the Egyptian Copts, Syriacs and Ethiopians. A well known oddity exists in there is a ladder outside the church stuck near a window (picture below). This ladder has been there over 100 years and no will move it because the denominations cant decide whose job it is. None of them agree on anything so no one is technically in charge. Hence no one will remove the ladders, so it just sits there.

We were able to kneel and pray at the altar covering the rock that they believe Jesus was crucified on. There is an opening under the altar where you can reach down and touch the rock. In Adam’s Cave, a room under this area, we saw a rock that had split and is believed to be the rock referred to in Matthew 27:51. We also saw the area where Queen Helena, Constantine’s mother, supposedly found Jesus’s actual cross. The actual cross no longer exists as it’s been cut into pieces and distributed among denominations. On our previous visit to this church we had touched the stone believed to be where Jesus was laid when taken down from the cross and prepared for the tomb. We revisited the Syrian Church section of The Holy Sepulcher where there is a tomb that might have belonged to Joseph of Arimathea or Nicodemus. Since many of the Easter tourists had left, the line to enter into the structure which housed the bench Jesus was supposedly laid on in the tomb, was much shorter, so we waited in line to see this. In addition to the bench, there was also a small portion of a rock that is supposedly all that is left of the stone that was rolled in front of Jesus’s tomb as many tourists have brought chisels over the years to take home a “souvenir.”

Church in Holy Sepulcher

Church in Holy Sepulcher

Outside The Church of the Holy Sepulcher - notice the ladder in upper window

Mosaic near where Christ was Crucified in Church of Holy Sepulcher

Alter of the Crucifixion

Adam's Cave shows the rock split when Jesus died on the cross

This marks the place that Jesus's cross was discovered

The only remaining part of the stone that was used to block the tomb Jesus was laid in

The bench that's been salvaged from the tomb Jesus was laid in

A few of the many candles lit for prayer

Our day ended with some shopping and fun at the unique stores with both new and old creations. We spent a bit of time learning about ancient coins and various other artifacts. Throughout the day as we'd pop in and out of places, our youngest son would head straight for the shofar. This is an incredibly difficult horn to blow and he picked it up right away and would blow a shofar over and over again, commanding everyone's attention. While we parents found it quite annoying all the shop owners were highly impressed and continued to encourage him - oh the noise we bring!

G quickly learned to blow the shofar and practiced in every shop we passed!

Our day ended at local pizza shop near our apartment where we were given a free very unique dessert pizza with halva, which is a sweet root of sorts, we all enjoyed this special treat.