Showing posts with label Jordan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jordan. Show all posts

Friday, April 15, 2016

Rest & Reconnecting in Morocco

We departed our friends house in Amman at 3:30 AM and headed for the airport in the dark, being driven by a stranger who had rented us his car during our time here. We had two Egyptair flights booked connecting in Cairo before arriving in Casabalanca. We felt totally safe being that an Egyptair flight was hijacked just a few weeks ago because there is no way they will let another one happen - heading straight into the storm is often the best way to avoid one we joked with our children, who were ready to take out any hijackers who were foolish enough to mess with their plane.

Travel was easy enough and we arrived at Casablanca airport in search of cash, SIM cards and our missionary friends from the Congo who we would spend the next 5 days with.

Upon completion of those tasks we headed to El Jadida by a shuttle we had rented to make life easier figuring we would fairly exhausted by this point.
Our place in El Jadida was a house located inside the old city walls. It was advertised as being 500 meters from the sea, which it was but there was no beach at that location. It also advertised a dishwasher, Internet and towels of which we had none. Now it didn't advertise having light bulbs but it was missing many of those as well. Apparently the owner had only told his employees about our arrival the day before and they just were not ready for us. The upside is that the place was truly Moroccan and being in the old city was very cool.
All smiles in their new Democratic Republic of Congo soccer jerseys - gifts from our friends
We did not do too much during this week except hangout, chat, walk the beach, and tell stories. Our friends have been life long missionaries and have lived all over the world. They shared their testimonies and stories from the field as well as gave us advice about our upcoming time in France, where Clotilde is from. We enjoyed hearing about the success and lives changed in the amazing ways that God is working in their project outside of Kinshasa. We marveled at the vibrant colors of the Atlantic ocean and the sky, something about this place just made everything extremely bright. We had a cook who made us Moroccan breakfasts and dinners and we enjoyed this treat and being able to relax at home in the evenings. Additionally, we were able to finalize the blue print for our final three months and get a good chunk of future bookings done, which removes a large burden off our shoulders. We can actually see the light at the end of that tunnel!
Rugs in the Market
The beach is primarily used for soccer with fields up and down for miles
Fresh juice breakfasts

Vibrant Moroccan beauty
Sitting on our rooftop terrace worshipping live online with our home church as the Muslim call to prayer went off in the background - AMAZING!
Kids on the cannon on top of the city walls!
A beautiful walk with Clotilde along the city ramparts
Beautiful gift of friendship and time to connect!
Skinned stingrays for sale at the local market!
Picking strawberries at the local market

Juice is not sold in El Jadida because there is so much ripe fruit, it's just easier to juice yourself - selecting just the "right" ones!

One day we ventured out to a nearby hotel pool that one of our Airbnb helpers said we could use. We took the city bus there and that was quite the experience! It was packed and we were pushed and separated for all of our 30 minute ride. Boarding the bus, a lady initially set the kids off as she insisted they not sit in a seat so that she could place her bag there, meanwhile many people were standing. Then as we rode along, a kid several rows behind where we were standing opened a yogurt container and it sprayed all over mom and several others standing in the aisle. Dad snuck a photo even though it's not proper to do so as Muslim women do not like being photographed.  Then at one point he leaned over to give mom a kiss and was slapped by a woman sitting nearby as public displays of affection are not welcome.  Eventually we got off in the middle of the Moroccan countryside on a dirt road with no signs and were delighted when we entered the beautiful hotel area and had the opportunity to relax in the sun while our daughter splashed in the pool a bit.


Such special people in our daughter's life story!
It was a wonderful week and mutually blessing to all of us.  The kids had never met these friends but have prayed for and supported them for years, even talking on Skype occasionally as these friends helped us adopt our daughter. Our daughter loved all of the hugs, learning ballet poses, snuggling, dancing and sharing life with Gino and Clotilde, who are so precious to her being a part of our family. All of us have gone through significant life changes since the one and only time we were together in Kinshasa in 2011, and it was beautifully healing and precious to share God's faithfulness in our lives. The timing of our reunion was also significant as it unintentionally fell over one of our difficult anniversary dates, and being with these friends helped us keep a heavenly perspective on the story God's writing for our family. We had great times of fellowship and prayer sharing our lives together in a forever memorable week.
Fun night of Dutch Blitz!
And off we go again...
Field of orange flowers on the way to Casablanca
Good bye until next time!

Saturday, April 9, 2016

Last Few Days in Jordan

We left Aljoun Nature Reserve and stopped at Jerash, an ancient Roman city in the Middle East, and one of the cities of the Decapolis.

Hadrian's Arch marks a visit by Emperor Hadrian around 130AD
Temple of Artemis, the patron goddess of the city
The Oval Forum - heart of the city of Jerash
We drove down to the Holiday Inn on the Jordan side of The Dead Sea, where we found it to be humorous that we were greeted multiple times with, "Welcome back," or "Nice to see you again," and one waitress even remembered our daughter's name from several weeks prior when we'd visited!  This visit the weather was beautiful and the Sea was calm.  We had a great couple of days making the most of the health benefits of this area and getting some school done.

Family floating
Our oldest 'chillin in the Dead Sea
G all mudded up with a rock mohawk to help the look!
We left the Dead Sea and headed to the Citadel in Amman.  These ruins also originated as Amman, former Philadelphia, is one of the ten cities of the Decapolis, and because of this it seemed somewhat similar to Jerash.  While it was good to see, the kids were getting excited to reconnect with our family friends again, so we kept the visit quick.
Strong kiddos in front of the Temple of Hercules
G with interesting Anthropoid clay coffins that were found containing 2-3 skeletons inside each one
We spent the last couple of nights in Jordan at our friend's place in Amman.  Our oldest son was able to attend youth group with their friends, which was a treat for him as he misses his youth group back home.  Mom and the rest of the kids were able to support our friends by attending their homeschool end of the year production, this was extremely bizarre for us to reflect on our lives as home educators and yet to be distanced from this particular group/co-op.  It made mom realize even more how much home educating moms sacrifice and how the effort they put into teaching their children truly is astounding.  Our final day was spent at the baseball diamond watching our friend play a couple of back to back games.  Little league was a whole new experience for our family and we joked about the camels just beyond the outfield fence.

We wrapped up our time together with a delicious steak dinner and, of course, some Smores', which were a special treat, but somehow are always part of our times together on either side of the world!  It was a treat for us to finally get to spend time with our friends in their world, see how life is for them in the Middle East and all that they've learned in their time here. It was fun to experience their community and we are always amazed at how smoothly our families connect so well.
Forever friends... and Smores!

Monday, April 4, 2016

Al Mafraq - Our day with Syrian Refuges

Today we drove to Al Mafraq, which is the largest Syrian Refuge settlement in Jordan. Our friends connected us to two local families who are here living as "urban refuges" as opposed the the "tent refuges" which live in the camps and we are not allowed to visit. We admit that we know very little about this conflict but we felt it was important to experience it as first hand as we could since we are here. Prior to our visit we read through this primer from World Vision which provides some information if you are interested: World Vision link

The urban refuges are Syrians living in the city in normal type of homes which they rent. In order to do so, they must spend any savings that they have because Jordan does not allow them work. We were able to visit and hear their stories and share a meal with them, getting a true sense of the world renowned Arab Hospitality - which we are starting to think means, feed the guests until they burst. One thing to note is that the men and women eat completely separately so Mom and SJ did not see Dad and the boys all day. During the boys first visit, the girls were participating in a club of sorts where local women come together to create items and share their lives with one another.

We cannot begin to convey the heartache and trauma that these people have endured since 2011, so we are not going to try to retell their stories for fear that they get underscored.

Here is a summary from our translated conversations with two families:
  • Syrians are profoundly proud of their country and heritage. You could feel it as they speak.
  • One man wants to return to Syria so badly that he would be happy just to sleep in a tent on Syrian soil.
  • Over 90% of the country has left
  • These are normal working families, just like any in America, trying to raise and educate their children. 
  • The crimes committed by the Bashar al-Assad regime are far worse than anything we have seen in the media.
  • Children and people of all ages are being murdered and these people have seen it first hand. The government started killing innocents as a threat with the hope to stop the revolution, but it only had the opposite effect because people thought, "If I'm going to be killed anyway, I might as well do something." This forced people into the streets that normally would not be involved in such matters to become a part of it. 
  • Many people (some of our hosts' relatives) are still trapped in the country, under constant watch, and would be shot for attempting to leave.  We were told that many of these "wish they were dead because what they have is not life." 
  • There is no food and the government purposely brings into towns quantities that are not enough, in order to cause division between those desiring to feed their children. 
  • The rebels have a dedicated channel which highlights their campaign. 
  • The refugees commented on the incident where someone threw a shoe at President Bush years ago, but said they cannot even make a remark against a soldier without serious repercussions.
  • There is very little hope left as people's entire psyches have changed. Even if the rebels win, "revenge killings will occur for a long time."
  • Women don't really share their stories and feelings because they have to survive.  They feel selfish sharing that they are grieving because they know the people around them are going through their own loss.
  • Even though some of these people left Syria years ago, their trauma is fresh and current because maybe they don't know where certain family members are, the news is constantly bombarding them, and their circumstances prevent them from moving forward with healing and hope.
  • Refugees have to be sponsored by a Jordanian to live outside of the camp. It took one of the families we met with two years to get sponsored. 
  • The more educated a Syrian, the less likely they can work in Jordan, which prevents them from working unless they find a "sponsor," which more or less makes them that person's indentured servant.  If anything were to go south with that relationship the refuge would be sent back to the camp. 
  • The young children in the refugee families are what give those who have lived through this hell a reason to hope, smile, and keep their minds off of the past.
  • The refugees want to work, but are not allowed, and that is one of the biggest issues with the Jordanian situation at this time. They are stuck, they come from generations of hard workers and not having a job does not sit well with them.
It's hard to summarize today in our mind because anything we type does not do justice to what we witnessed firsthand. At the end of the day, these are everyday people whose lives were turned upside down from no fault of their own. One comment that hit boys hard was, "its' better to eat off $1 that you earn yourself than $10,000 that someone gives you for nothing."
Major food!
TV showing the Rebel Channel
Sharing a meal and stories

Sunday, April 3, 2016

Biking & Back to Jordan We Go!

Saturday we woke up and decided to bike along the shore of the Sea of Galilee.  This was the first time that Dad pulled our youngest in a tag along and she thought this was a great upgrade.  It was a beautiful ride and we all enjoyed having some much needed space and exercise.  We happened to stop at a sweet little restaurant in a courtyard area for lunch and then rode a bit further to a chocolate shop for some ice-cream.
Biking Crew
Tag-a-long rider


Afterwards we drove to Safed, which is supposed to be one of the more authentic Jewish cities in Israel, but because it was shabbat everything was closed.  We enjoyed walking around this unusual city high up with amazing views.  Then we headed back into town, where we had a hard time finding a place to eat and decided skipping dinner might be the best solution for some of the behavioral problems we were experiencing, so we headed  back to our accommodations on empty stomachs and called it a day.
Empty street in Safed
Mom forgot that on shabbat cameras are not allowed and got in trouble by these
children out for a walk with their lamb
Our upcoming week was supposed to be spent working with Syrian Refuges, but the plans fell apart at the last minute and this left us scrambling to plan a week on the fly. We debated staying in Israel longer and maybe heading over to Tel Aviv, but that would require us to drive all the way back south to cross the border and then drive back north on the Jordanian side. You are not allowed the take and Israeli car across the border so figuring out how to drop one car, cross the border, rent another car gets taxing to say the least, as larger cars are hard to come by (and expensive) here. We spent a significant amount of time distracted by trying to figure this out, while adding up the various costs of things, and ultimately decided to head across the border as planned knowing we still had several holes in our itinerary.

We woke up Sunday morning, returned our Israeli car to Hertz ,and walked to the bus station only to see the bus we needed pull away as we approached. The next bus wasn't for an hour and a half so we opted to grab a taxi and head to the border crossing, which went surprisingly smoothly except the driver trying to make us pay more money than we agreed. Once on the Jordan side, we literally had no idea how we were getting to our accommodations, which were roughly 45 minutes away - or so we thought.  Our best guess was a cab and we joked as we walked into Jordan how crazy this would seem to so many Americans.  We literally had no real idea but just figured we could cobble something together.  It turns out there was a rental place at the border crossing and we crammed into a Hyundai Elantra because the seat-belt laws here are not like Israel and we can pull it off by bribing the kids with a good lunch in 45 minutes when we are supposed to arrive at our lodging.  The car had little gas, which seems to be typical of rentals here, so we stopped quick and bought some snacks and used the bathroom.
The cleanest gas station bathroom in Jordan!
Trying to find our new place proved challenging as the pin location on Google took us completely to a different part of the country - literally - and Waze did not know the place.  After being stuck over a half an hour in a valley of uncertain roads with crazy steep hills in our questionable vehicle, and where the only other people we saw were shepherds, who we were fairly certain didn't speak any English, we ultimately got the employees of our accommodations involved.  What should have been a 45-60 minutes drive took us 4 hours, all crammed in a car that was too small. With the kids fit to be tied as the previous night's dinner was skipped and this morning was rushed, the meal we'd promised them on arrival and as a bribe for being squished in the car was delayed 4 hours... we arrived at a beautiful forest reserve which was quiet and peaceful.  All things considered this was a pretty successful day considering what all we accomplished :).

It was crazy to say the least but in the end we found ourselves at what has proved to be some of our favorite type of places -in a remote setting amid the forest and moutains.  Dad was again hailed down because of his YoungLife hat, and we enjoyed visiting with some Americans who were working in Amman and had parents visiting.  It ended up we were the only people staying in this place, and we were very content spreading out a bit and having a quiet night.
Our Mountain Accommodation
View of Aljoun Forest Reserve

Thursday, March 24, 2016

When Best Intentions Fail

This post will briefly highlight one of the more frustrating days on this tour.  We have stated before that the primary purpose of this blog is to document what we are learning and experiencing.  One direct consequence of that is that it often appears everything is smooth sailing and this trip is just one giant experience of a lifetime after another.  It takes enough effort to write down what we do actually do, that we don't take the time to journal the failures (or want to remember) too much.  The reality is that we are living out of backpacks while planning, driving, eating, learning, doing school, documenting the past and planning the future.  Some days get too long and others are too short.  We get sick and have to make the most of it.  We have done our best to "keep it real" and explain some of the hardships but we then worry that that just sounds like whining... so bottom line it's not easy to document or to share in a realistic manner.

Today we had big plans which was version 2 of our original plan for our border crossing day. We were getting dropped by our friends on the Jordan side of the border and planned to walk through to Eilat, Israel on foot, where we had arranged a rental car.  Originally we were going to just drive straight to Jerusalem and then return the car the same day. We already had an Airbnb place rented in Jerusalem for this evening.  But upon further research we learned that three of the things we wanted to see, Masada, En Gedi and Qumran, were all further from Jerusalem than we thought and on the way there from Eilat (which is the most southern part of Israel).  So we changed plans and decided to spend the night at the Dead Sea again (this time on the Isreal side) to give Dad's skin another chance to soak in it and take in these three sites.  This meant a wasted night and money for our Airbnb though.  And we later learned that this required keeping our rental car not just one extra day but 3 because we could not return the car Friday afternoon due to Shabbat (everything closes down) and if we wanted to return on Saturday, it would require driving it to Tel Aviv (over an hour away).  So we had to keep the car until Sunday.  This 3 day rental car, cost more than our 3 week rental car in South Africa and it's the same model of vehicle! We also had to stay in a hotel at the Dead Sea because there were no other options, which meant we needed two rooms and they were expensive too.  So all this is not a whine about how expensive Israel is, but rather meant to explain that in order to see these three sites, we had to incur some hefty extra fees - we believed that it would be worth it though.

Crossing the border we had been prepped to be ready for questioning on the Israeli side because of our heavily stamped passports. But it was the Jordan exit that caught us off guard. We got through the first two staging areas with no problem, but at the final exit area they looked increasingly alarmed and would not give us our daughter's passport back.  They then asked for Dad's again, disappeared for a while and ultimately came back asking for the two of them to follow to another room.  You can imagine the tension at this point.  As they were told to sit, a higher ranking official walked into the room and was pleasant but began asking questions.  Some questions were of the type that you would rather your adopted child not hear, but none of that can be worried about at this point. Part of the problem was that they did not understand the concept of adoption, it seemed completely foreign to them. They wanted to see paperwork that explained this, which, of course, we don't have.  We do have a birth certificate though after our episode with South Africa and that seemed to help (maybe the point of that ordeal?).  After about 20 minutes of discussion things were sorted and they were released and we were allowed to leave Jordan. Ultimately the commander told Dad that he was both an "excellent" and "respected" man - ha!:)  But what should have been a 20 minute (tops) ordeal took about 90 and we were not even to the Israeli side of things yet! Remember we had a schedule we had paid considerably to accomplish today.

The Israeli border had its own set of complications.  We could immediately see the step-up that a developed nation has as soon as we crossed the neutral zone.  The kids commented on this right away as Israel has A/C in their buildings, covered walk ways, clear signs, its clean, and everything is nicer and more modern.  One thing we had not really thought about was that the Belgium bombing had just occurred 4 days prior to our crossing.  This (we later learned) meant that everything coming into Israel is being checked with a fine tooth comb - who could blame them?  We were screened several times, but the biggest time-sink was them checking our bags. They literally required us to remove everything from every bag. Packing for a year is a bit of a science that we have almost mastered by now, but it doesn't happen in seconds. It took us about an hour just to get through the bag screening as 4 Israelis looked at one bag at a time together.  Thankfully the passport portion of things was very easy and we were not asked one question.  Welcome to Israel!
Israel here we come!
Now we knew our time had been cut short but we still hoped to see one of our three sites today so that we can do two tomorrow.  We crammed into a small taxi (yes, all of us and our bags) and were driven to our rental car pick up point by a man in a Hawaiian lei and wearing a head piece with boingy caterpillar pompoms.  Getting our car actually went fairly smooth and we were off to look for SIM cards.  Here another set back hit hard as it took us over an hour to find a store.  All the names were in Hebrew, so even if we saw one, we easily could've missed it unless it's super obvious as we can't read the Hebrew alphabet. Google took us to two wrong places. Congrats if you were quick enough to ask, how can you use Google if you dont have SIM cards? - You are paying attention. The answer to that astute question though is that we can still use our Jordan cards because we are near the border.  Anyway, not finding a store, we began asking locals.  It turned out that many local stores are closed because today is a holiday as the Jewish population is celebrating Purim - of course it's a holiday today!  Purim is celebrated once a year in remembrance of Esther's brave act to save the Jewish people, and it is celebrated by dressing up as though it were Halloween all day long!  After much searching we eventually find SIM cards but by now its 3:00 and we had no hope of reaching Masada before it closed.  We were bummed but nothing could really be done.  We made the drive to our hotel and hoped to get into the Dead Sea before it closed.

Upon arriving at the hotel we were fit to be tied. The kids had fought for two hours, we were all hungry, tired and frustrated, not having eaten anything resembling a meal since breakfast.  Mom headed up to the room with the kids while Dad parked because the lot was huge.  But she then texted Dad that he would have to pick 3 of them up in the lobby because they were too busy fighting to follow her and she arrived at the room with only one in tow - this is sort of funny really but we are not laughing.  Dad found SJ on top of G in the lobby with several strangers looking at this concoction with very inquisitive faces.  Our hope was to take a swim but it's now past sunset, so both the beach to the Dead Sea and the indoor pools were closed, so that won't work either - it just kept getting better!

Dinner at this hotel has two options - a crazy expensive buffet or some bar-type food.  Feeling annoyed at the added expense of this day already, we opted for the bar food only to realize that they don't have most of the menu available and none of the slim pickings contained meat.  So we were forced to opt for the expensive buffet - uggh.  While it's decent it was not worth anywhere near the money but there were literally no other options other than a McDonald's and we just were not prepared to head there.  We made the most of our meal and headed off to bed.  Just prior to bed our oldest realizes he left his iPad charger, cord and converter at the last place we stayed.  He erupted and began to take it out on others. Yes, this all happened.

We have certainly experienced all these types of events in our travels, but having them all hit in the same day was... well, let's just say "interesting."  Stay tuned to read how the next morning begins!  (Spoiler alert: we woke up to learn that daylight savings occurred over night!) If you are sick of reading about all the great times and wonderful sites, we hope this post encouraged you! :)  We are all works in progress.

On the upside we are headed to Jerusalem for Easter!

Talabay Resort - Aqaba, Jordan

We planned our time in Jordan to coincide with our friends' spring break who live in Amman.  They had been to a nice resort on the Red Sea and recommended we spend the week there.  This complex was just a few KMs from the Saudi Arabia border and when we looked across the Red Sea we saw Egypt as well as Israel, which was pretty crazy!  We each had our own apartment and there were several pools to chose from as well as the Red Sea.  It was a great set up and we were able to relax a bit and enjoy some down time and catching up.  The kids had such a great time with one another and it was a treat for them all to have their buddies to get to hang out with.  There was hardly anyone there so it felt like we had the place to ourselves.  The temperature was in the low 70's and the water was cool, so we tried to take advantage of some of the neighboring resort's pools who tended to be have warmer water temps than ours or the Sea.

Chillin' by the Red Sea
Check out the purple jellyfish - so cool!
Monday happened to be Arabian Mother's Day, so mom and Katie made the most of that by spending the afternoon at the spa getting a massage and enjoying the facilities.  The following day we were thrilled to find a place that could cut guy's hair into a style and not just buzz it.  All of the guys took advantage of this as did Mom once she saw how talented this man was.  For Dad, this flushed11 months worth of hard work down on the floor, but it was time.  It was interesting to learn our cutters story as he was born in Iraq and hoped to study overseas for university like his older siblings.  However, Saddam Hussein came to power and he was not allowed to leave the country.  He was able to escape to Jordan and hoped to be in the army but was not allowed because of fear that he might turn his allegiance, so he's been cutting hair for years now and is basically trapped.  He told about his family, who all live in the States now, coming to visit during the first elections that President Obama won.  His nephew commented that he looks like Obama and that if a Muslim can be President of the United States, then there is a chance that he could someday be president and his dad told him to aim for this goal.  Our haircutter friend explained how amazing this was for this young boy to be able to dream about the possibility of attaining this lofty goal as here in Jordan, this would never be an option for his child.  It was easy to sense the underlying despair as this kind man relayed parts of his life story.


Shaggy!
Who's under that hair!?!
Just a trim for this one
Had to happen
Our friends had brought some rollerblades and a ripstick that our boys just loved cruising around on.  Thankfully there was only one concerning fall where G got scuffed up a bit.  They also brought along some snorkeling gear and our last day we went down the road and snorkeled around a reef.  We had fun making family breakfasts and the kids would clean up after one another which was a treat.  Unfortunately, we likely spread our colds to our friends as some of them started coming down with head congestion as well.  This gave us all an excuse to lay around and do little, which was just fine in our view.   We spent our evenings watching a basketball game with wings (unfortunately it was the Iowa game, er, blowout), having a couple of date nights, a family dance/talent night, movie nights, poker games, Dutch Blitz matches, and eating along the inlet on the Red Sea.  Little school was done as 100% of our time was devoted to hanging out with our friends we hadn't seen in over a year and a half.  However, our apartment didn't have Internet as it claimed to have, so Dad complained and they ended up installing a router so that we could be connected.  While this wasn't how we hoped to spend our time, the reality was that we haven't had decent Internet in over a month and at this point of our travels, we only had 2 of the next 3 weeks planned and felt a bit behind our game with scheduling, so tried to make good use of the opportunity to get a few things booked in April.  We still have a lot of holes but got a few things booked and at least a blue print in the works.

Ripsticking & rollerblading around the pools!
Crazy gymnastics fun
Handstand contest between Dad and Anna
Kids working on some new talents!
Snorkeling
Good friends!
Date Night!!