Phnom Phen & The Killing Fields

With a few down days in Cambodia, we were told that a visit to Phnom Phen, the 'Pearl of Asia,' was essential to understanding the history of Cambodia.  We opted to take the bus, which was slightly less than an 8 hour ride one way and only cost $15 per person. This bus had WIFI so the kids were able to get some school done on the way there which was a helpful use of time. Thankfully Dad and our oldest’s stomachs held it together for the bus ride there as they’d struggled the day prior to our trip with food poisoning.

We arrived at 8pm and had booked a cheap room with 3 double beds and our own bathroom (with the roughest pink toilet paper ever).  We found a bite to eat and enjoyed playing a bit of pool before calling it a night.

"Guesthouse" room in Phnom Phen

Infamous Pink Toilet Paper

Tuesday morning we headed to The Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, otherwise known as The Killing Fields.  In preparation for our time in Cambodia, we have all read books about the Khmer Rouge and had many discussions about what we’ve learned.  The missionaries that we are serving in Siam Reap with are survivors of the Killing Fields and have openly shared their stories with us, which is very sobering.  We weren’t sure if the exhibits would be appropriate for the children and were thrilled that we were able to download Aladdin for our daughter to watch so that she wouldn’t pick up on any of the tragic history we would be learning about. 

The Killing Fields are outside of Phnom Phen, which was in the jungle during their time of use.  Shoeing Ek is the most well known of over 300 killing fields throughout Cambodia.  We each received headsets and an audio tour so that we could go at our pace to each of the stations along a path that wound through the site of many mass graves.  This was a great way to do it as it’s such a personal experience to learn about these atrocities, and this kept everyone very somber and quiet.  As we walked along the paths and saw the pits in the ground where masses of bodies were dumped. There were also areas set apart where specific known groups were buried and we saw shreds of clothing that had surfaced as well as human bones - because of the rainy season and then the extreme dry season which constantly brings new items to the surface. Every few months the caretakers of the site clean up the areas with reverent care for the deceased.  We listened to stories from survivors who had been forced to leave their homes, seen family members killed in front of them, lost an infant, and who's life was spared due to the sacrifice of a fellow prisoner.  The walk ended at a Memorial Stupa, which is a Buddhist monument that houses over 9000 skulls which were each classified according to their age and how they were killed. It's a graphic and powerful display of the horrors that occurred here.

Burial Grounds for Khmer Rouge victims who were executed.
The depressions are the result of bodies being removed and erosion over time.

Mass grave of more than 100 victims - women and children

Victim's clothing that's been retrieved or surfaced in the fields in this area.

Tree where infants where killed.

Remnants of victim's clothing that's surfaced on paths and in fields

Victim's Bones remaining after excavation

Memorial Stupa with over 9000 skulls

Sobering memorial where skulls are classified by how the victims were killed and their ages

From there we headed to the Tyol Sleng Genocide Museum, otherwise known as S-21, the secret center of a network of nearly 200 prisons where people were tortured by the Khmer Rouge until they confessed something. Between 12,000 – 20,000 people were imprisoned here and there are only twelve confirmed survivors! 

Here we were given a similar audio tour device.  Our youngest son had been battling a stomach bug and fever all day and he opted to rest on a bench in the shade with our daughter, while the rest of us walked around the courtyard doing our tours.  This ended up to be a blessing in that he was feeling better by the time we wrapped up, and also this location had much more graphic displays and stories that might not have been age appropriate.

Rules for prisoners being interrogated

The gallows with pots underneath

Explaining what happened with the prisoners and the pots 

Being emotionally wrought after reliving stories of the Cambodia’s recent history, we opted to grab a bite to eat at 'Daughter’s of Cambodia'.  This is a Christian NGO that is working to help girls and boys leave the sex trade by giving them opportunities to learn other trades.  In addition to the sweet café with phenomenal food choices, there is a spa for women to have a massage or pedicure, and a store selling some of the items they make.  This was all eye-opening and sobering in its own way also.

Sugar & Spice Cafe run by Daughter's of Cambodia

We stopped by our hotel and left G to rest a bit while we did a sunset cruise on the Ta Khmau River which feeds into the Mekong River. Needless to say, we always enjoy a boat ride and relaxed just cruising around looking at the lit up city from the river.  We headed back to our hotel and the kids studied as this place has the best WIFI we’ve been exposed to for awhile, and then we called it a night with several of us still recovering from whatever bug for food issue we acquired. This was all just one day!

Along the river walk, people gather to exercise and do dance workouts together.

Sunset Cruise on Tonle Sap River which feeds into the Mekong

Wednesday we got a bit of a late start as it was a long night for G not feeling well.  We packed up and grabbed a bite to eat, walked to the Royal Palace to see it from the street as it closes for several hours mid-day.  Then we headed to the bus station only to learn that there was a glitch in the system somewhere along the lines and they didn't have us on the bus.  We'd been hearing how the busses from Phnom Phen to Siem Reap were sold out for days, so we were a bit concerned about what this was going to mean.  Thankfully the bus service arranged for a van to drive us back to Siem Reap. Dad called it the Bat Mobile as the driver was very speedy and the road was incredibly rough. We didn't have some of the amenities we would've on the bus, so it was a long ride and the kids couldn't do schoolwork or much of anything under the conditions.  As it got dark and there were no streetlights, kids riding bikes without reflectors, and all kinds of vehicles going every direction, the ride got a bit sketchy, so we were thrilled to finally arrive back in Siem Reap and return to our hotel, which felt a bit like "home." 

All in all, this was a 'heavy' 3 days, but we were glad we made the effort as it will no doubt leave a lasting impression on all of us. It is hard to believe what this country has endured only 40 years ago. A generation was almost completely lost and they say that about half of the country suffers from PTSD. The Buddhist mentality and reliance on karma and fate do not allow for true healing as many just believe such was their fate. Never the less, Cambodians are courageous to soldier on and work towards many of the dreams that not so long ago, caused them to be victims of these horrors (being educated, committed to their country, families, and a better life).  Another challenge to their history is that they have not experienced justice from this atrocity as Pol Pot died several years ago after enjoying a long life with his family, never having been held accountable for his actions. 

Our drive back to Siem Reap - rice laying out to dry

Rice piled high in front yard