Auckland, New Zealand

Our 6 nights in Auckland were spent in an Airbnb apartment near Takapuna beach, which is about 15 minutes north of downtown Auckland. It took a couple of days for everyone to adjust, and for the most part we split our time between catching up on school, planning logistics for future travel, and seeing some of the city sites.  It's been a bit of a challenge remembering to look right to see if cars are coming when we cross the street, and seeing drivers on the right side of the car.

Our first morning there we walked along the beach, which was long, wide, and flat, with large volcanic rocks often separating it from the houses.  We saw all ages of people and soon learned the kids were at the end of a short school break.  We found a cafe for breakfast and immediately became fans of New Zealand food - often fresh, organic, and unique combinations (a bonus for mom is that pumpkin is in season here, so it's a flavor to remind her of the fall back home, but the Kiwis are not familiar with pumpkin lattes).  Afterwards we continued our walk and the kids collected snails, starfish, and seashells.  On our way back to our place we walked up a street that had really nice homes on it and learned this was Minnehaha Street, which we found interesting with our association back home!

Observing hermit crabs, snails, & starfish

Our place had kayaks and an "optimist" sail boat at our disposal, which we were really excited about. Little did we know though that the weather is all over the board here as it's spring. The water felt like Prior Lake in April, so while we did walk and hang on the beach some, there was little swimming to be had.  Mom actually bought a knee-length winter coat on clearance as we've been told it will get much colder as we head south!

Kayaking

Collecting seashells

Pushing the sailboat to the beach

The boys sailing!

The hallmarks of a developed nation have certainly not lost their effects on us as we thoroughly enjoyed all the luxuries we take for granted at home....and in English! We watched some movies in our place and even went to a theater one night - a real treat. We visited the Sky Tower, Wartime Museum, took a ride on a real sailboat, and walked through Kelly Tarltons SEA LIFE Aquarium, which has a life sized replica of Ernest Shakelton's Antarctic mission post and was very cool to see (great book BTW). We also attended church at Harbourside Church, which was a fantastic body of believers (and unbeknownst to us, home of the New Zealand Dream Center based off of the one in LA, where our home church is sending a team to serve in the spring)!  Mom and dad even got a great date night one evening, dining at a fabulous restaurant near our "home". There were familiar stores right up the street and even a Starbucks!  The boys highlight was seeing a Maclaren, where the passenger opened the door and let them check out the interior - no ride was offered though.

Auckland Sky Tower in background

View from the Sky Tower

Minecraft Virtual Reality Gallipoli, a museum highlight!

Captaining the sail boat

Worship at Harbourside Church

Boys gawking at the Maclaren

The Kiwi people certainly did not disappoint, as they are known for their hospitality. On one of our first bus rides, a local got off a stop early just to help us. We met a professor from the University who spent time chatting with us about things to do and showed a keen interest in our adventure (this was a welcome convo as we parents were at our whits end with the kids at that particular  moment and an adult conversation rejuvenated us a bit, which we found funny once we realized the truth of how starved we sometimes are just to feel a connection to another adult).

Spring is beautiful here as there is a lot of color with things in bloom.  There are cherry blossom trees blooming, and these incredible rose trees and bushes.  Another thing mom's noticed is that they have rosemary bushes here and they are used as shrubs on the sides of streets and sidewalks.  She even saw parsley being grown for decoration in a garden patch at a roundabout!  All of this makes for many pleasant smells as we walk around.

Walking amid the cherry blossoms

Rosemary shrub

All in all, it was a wonderful week despite the colder than expected temperature, and we thoroughly enjoyed the Takapuna/Auckland area.  Dad visited another foot specialist and got some inserts to help with his feet pain.  We got around mostly by city bus (which was expensive), but also used Uber and a shuttle service (no tuk tuks or mototaxis here). In hindsight we should have rented a car, which would have allowed dad to practice driving and probably cost about the same in total, but provided more flexibility for us. Oh well, live and learn. Our next 17 days will spent in a campervan so we can only assume a lot of learning is about to commence. 

  

Campervan here we go!

[Our effort to post real-time.... Auckland post forthcoming]

Today we embarked on a whole new journey. Not only have we never spent time in a campervan, we have never driven on the left side of the road, co-piloted in a country that is backwards to everything common sense to us Americans, been able to walk around and go to the bathroom in our moving vehicle, sit above the driver's head, or prepared a meal inside a closet, which is both our vehicle and bedroom.  This will truly test Dad and his fascination with the tiny house movement, not to mention test all of us on a whole new level!  But hey, our oldest wanted to have his 4th birthday party in an RV, so we are doing our best to make every dream a reality-ha!

It is common for tourists to travel this way in New Zealand.  The scenery is phenomenal and we've heard some of the best moments are when one gets off the beaten track and explores a bit.

After a lesson on our new multi-purpose vehicle, we started with a short drive to a supermarket to stock up on meals for a couple of days.  Unsure of where we would be spending the night, we re-evaluated our later-than-expected start and came up with Plan B for our destination - Waitomo. This spontaneity is a big stretch for one of us firstborns for sure!  Our first journey was about 2.5 hours south and somewhat in the rain. Starbucks in hand, we set off and only missing one turn, we felt fairly proud of ourselves. Along the way the kids wrestled, did gymnastics and only needed reprimanding 102 times. We found our destination in the parking lot of what seems to be an almost-deserted restaurant at the top of a hill, on an animal farm.  This is referred to as "free-camping", which means that because our vehicle is self-contained we can park here for free overnight.  It's rained the whole time since we parked, which has confined us to the camper only. 

We managed to make an excellent spaghetti dinner and only broke one glass-yeah this will be interesting :)

There are three beds (unusual sizes but maybe queen-ish), one is above the driver/co-pilot, one is right behind the driver & co-pilot seats, and one is in the back.  Each bed can be partitioned off by curtains.  There are areas behind both the driver & co-pilot's seats to erect a small table each, and an area in the back where we set up a larger table and managed to fit all of us around it for dinner.  The "kitchen sink" folds down flat, and we learned immediately that everything needs to be in its place or things fly when we drive.  Our bathroom is going to create some interesting maneuvers to allow us adults to shower... There is a toilet and a small sink, with all of the walls made of a shower material.  The faucet for the sink is on a vertical rod so that when you shower you just raise the faucet and TADA... the entire sink, toilet and all become part of the shower closet..awesome!

Here are a few photos from Day 1 of our next 17 days as vagabonds in kiwi country.

Here she is - name forthcoming

Gourmet chef digging the facilities

Success!!

Reflections On Two Months Away

[This post was started a week ago]

Right now we are sitting on a plane flying to New Zealand with our first two months having come to a close. We flew from Cusco to L.A. on Oct 2nd, spent 3 quick nights on Venice beach with Grandpa and Grandma (thanks so much!).  We enjoyed US comforts of hot showers, nice toilets, signs in English, Chick-fil-A, BJ's, Special K bars, red velvet cake, worship in English at Hillsong LA, shopping at Target, a pumpkin latte at Starbucks, and a date night ending in limoncello! And now we are in route to New Zealand, a lifelong dream of dads.

Snuggles with Grandma

Morning bike rides with Grandpa

Pumpkin Latte while worshipping at Hillsong LA!

We have had 66 days (9.4 weeks) in three different countries, 11 different beds, 12 different airplanes and barely scratched the surface of Central & South America. We did not go to Brazil, Argentina, Chile or a host of other countries each with unique people, histories and cultures. The world is indeed a HUGE place. We have transported ourselves in taxis, mototaxis, tuk tuks, trains, vans, buses, shuttles and trucks, and yet have not driven in 66 days. We have had cut feet, swimmers ear, hurt our backs, bruised ribs, scratched faces, swollen feet, massive bug bites, lots of puke, diarrhea, gone weeks with no hot water, endured fighting children, crying children, fighting parents, been dirty, sweaty and everything in between. As parents we have had little alone time and virtually no privacy even for a conversation. It has not been easy by any stretch and now we find ourselves heading further from home than we have ever been, by far, at a time when we feel quite homesick. We miss our friends, our church, our beds, our home, Prior Lake, our food, our cars, fall and changing leaves, deer season, Starbucks, Chick-Fil-A, routine, and work. And yet something drives us further. The kids talk about how going home for just one week would be so great; no, we tell them, that would not be easy. When we go home, we stay home - doing a pit stop would only be harder. We have at times questioned (both mentally and verbally) pulling the plug and being done, but when push comes to shove no one is really ready - at least not yet.

To an extent we are still figuring out what works for us as we have moved every week for the last four weeks - a period we knew would be challenging. While it was doable, it felt a little fast and school bore the brunt of the pain. To stay on top of school will require a slightly slower pace and more routine, but routine is very tough to keep. There is so much to see and do - how does one balance this amazing opportunity and also stay sane? We are not sure yet, but we have a better grasp than when we started. However now, to an extent, we are starting over. Our first two months included 3 different volunteering times and we connected with two different YoungLife staff. Our next two months have none of that (at least planned). Our last two months were in another language and 3rd world countries, and now we are back to English and the developed world. We left home with our first two months fairly mapped out, knowing (or at least believing we knew) where we were staying each and every night. As of now we only know our next 6 nights and then have 17 nights as nomads in a camper and after that, no definitive plans. We have some things roughly mapped up but have the freedom to do anything we want as nothing is formally booked. Will that be better or more stressful? We are about to find out. So there is an experiment going on to a certain level and we are as curious as anyone as to how it will play out. 

As a family we have already created more memories than we will remember when done. Our kids still fight and argue and act like children but they have a higher respect for one another. They have shown the ability to rally together when needed and pull more than their own weight. They have grown up in their own mini ways as they have seen things they never knew imaginable. Multiple people have commented to us how amazingly different the three boys are, and while we know it, it's interesting to see how quickly new acquaintances pick up on it and reminds us just how important it is to keep in mind. Parenting, unfortunately, is not one size fits all.

I'd love to close this with some grand thought and revelation that has been revealed to us but we do not have it and I'm not sure that is the point anyway. We have had an amazing two months outside of our comfort zone and grown through adversity as a family. We all miss things from home but cling to one another and God's plan for us. One thing that is apparent is that life is full of choices and they are hard no matter what you choose or where you sleep. While busyness and mental preoccupation are always knocking on our door we have the ability to fend them off but it takes effort - at home or abroad. It's easy to look at the glamour side of this adventure and think "oh how great" or "how inspiring" without considering the logistic and exhaustion side or the child melt down on a foreign street or the myriad of accidents that occur with limited clothing. At home all the above exist but they are easier to take in stride. On the road all one can do is pray, try to laugh and make the best of it, but sometimes that proves difficult.

Our next two months will be very different than our last two and we are excited for the opportunity. With fewer plans concrete, our goals include slowing down, getting some dates nights, more school, playing more games as a family, and processing what we've experienced and are learning. Life is short and we remain optimistic about maximizing God's glory.

[post landing addition: just moving through airport and getting new sim cards in developed. English speaking nation is sooo much easier... love NZ already!]  

Machu Picchu - UNREAL!

This is a tough post to do because we know before even starting that there is no way our words or pictures can do justice to this piece of our adventure - but, being first born children, we will try anyway.

Summary:

• We have studied and looked at a lot of pictures of Machu Picchu over the years and one thing is clear: it is bigger than any one photograph can capture. This was evident right away. It was truly an amazing site to see with our own eyes and certainly deserves to be one of the 7 wonders of the world. 
• The water engineering by the Incas is unbelievable. This enthralled dad and G as they tried to process the vast genius in what they have done. Machu Picchu sits about 8500 feet in the mountains surrounded by much taller mountains and it rains a solid 6 months of the year. Without proper drainage the place would just wash away, and yet it stands some 600 years later. There are small channels throughout the entire structure that still operate today. We learned that the Inca Empire actually ran glacial water throughout the entire kingdom, moving water over 3000km, all the way to the coasts in some instances.
• The Trek to get to Machu Picchu was a feat in and of itself. As a family we had to conquer adversity and challenges in ways we have never experienced. To end our two month Central/South American tour here was a treat.  
• One of our best friends joined us for this journey which was truly special and helped combat the homesick feeling that is creeping upon us.
• We got sick! Four of us got very sick (food poisoning) on our third night up at 12,000 feet and it was scary as the dehydration from the food poisoning led to altitude sickness. Thanks for all of the prayers that got us through those 24 hours!
• Psalm 121 was what we clung to for this hike and repeated many times!

So, if you are a glutton for punishment and want more details here you go...

Our first day started out being picked up at our hotel in Cusco at 5AM. We took a shuttle bus to Uramtambo where we had a quick breakfast and ventured further to our drop point. This would typically be the 82km point but because of some construction we had to start at 78km and hike our way to the checkpoint. Fairly flat and easy but it made for a longer day. We eventually reached our checkpoint and entered the official trail. The first day was a 11km hike climbing from about 8923 ft to 9612 ft, moving from Piskacucho to Hatunchaca. It was a fairly easy day and we were very impressed with our food and picturesque lunch stop. They laid down a tarp in a tent and give us a 30 minute nap after lunch time.

Beginning the Inca Trail!

Short rest after lunch

This is a small ruin seen on first day hike

Our guide Saul teaching us about Incas

These are some of the porters or "chaskis" who carry the gear of the hikers, at times they run and most wear tattered sandals, these are incredibly hard working men!

Our 2nd day is known to be the toughest as we climb over "Dead Woman's Pass," which requires rising at 5am. We woke up to a great sky and perfect weather and felt truly blessed as many people have to do this climb in the rain and we were fortunate.  We were all a little nervous not knowing what to fully expect. In total, we hiked about 11.5KM moving from Hatunchaca to Pacaymayu. This hike involved about 6 hours of hiking up to the pass and then another 2 hours down to our campsite. As we climbed, we made reasonable progress and our guide was truly impressed with SJ who worked her way with our oldest at a steady clip. The climbing from hour 3-5 was pretty intense and eventually SJ hopped onto Melcher's (her personal porter when desired) shoulders for the final push which was right about 14,000 feet. After we all made it to the top we rested and basked in our accomplishment and the great views for a while.

Phew!  We did it!

From the top of Dead Woman's Pass

Dead Woman's Pass

Resting in the clouds

Then we start heading down a very steep and rocky path and it promptly began to rain, which made each step slippery, but our spirits were high knowing we had conquered the toughest part. The rain lightened up as we got to camp but most of us crawled into our tents at about 4:00 to rest before dinner.  SJ hiked on her own about 6 of the 8 hours. We ended this day about 11,700 feet and slept well.

Our 3rd day was a mere 5 hour hike and we got the joy of sleeping until 6:30 since it's a shorter trek. We hiked from Pacaymayu to Phuyupatamarca, stopping at some ruins along the way to explore. Overall it was a fairly flat day with our elevation staying about 12,000 ft all day. 

Boys with Uncle Ray at a ruin along the way.

Hiking into a tunnel in the cloud forest

The campsite that we ended at was by far the greatest one yet, as its sits in the cloud forest atop a mountain with amazing views all around. Just below we could see a good sized ruin and the mountain ranges in the distance were breathtaking as one had a large glacier on top. Clouds roll in and out with a slow peaceful motion and the best part was that we had beautiful weather that afternoon to soak it in.

Camp site in the clouds - Phuyupatamacrca

All of us in front of our tents with a llama photo bombing us!

Another great view from our campsite!

Dad and G enjoying the views!

Unfortunately, as the day wore on it took a sudden turn. Around 4:00, our oldest announced he wasn't feeling the greatest and decided to rest some in the tent. Everyone else started feeling a bit queasy and decided to skip dinner, leaving Dad, SJ and Saul to eat together in a rather awkward fashion.  The cook seemed a little annoyed that no one else showed up so Dad tried to get some of the chaskis (porters) to join them but they acted a bit shy and refused.  Before dinner was over three in our group were having serious issues and it escalated violently.  Thankfully the toilet tent was moved in front of our tents as we were having a hard time finding it in our panic as it was a bit down the cliff and getting dark. But one toilet tent wasn't enough for what was happening to us and as Cipro wasn't sticking, dehydration became a serious concern as we were over 12,000 feet. Any liquids ingested immediately came back out. After several non-stop hours of this, we decide to turn on our phones (this is the first place we had been with cell coverage on the hike) and get people praying (thanks to all).  This lasted past midnight and we were so grateful the rain held off as we were all a mess.  We got little sleep and then around 4:30am it hit dad hard and he became a full participant.

By 8am we were not sure what do to. Dad could hardly get up and was weak and a bit delirious. We had a 5 hour hike ahead of us on very little sleep, no fluid, and no energy. The guide had previously mentioned to mom that this day was the most dangerous because of steep cliffs and drop offs, so there was concern about physical safety if we pushed too hard.  The next camping group was encroaching on our tents and it was time to make a decision. Eventually we had to go, and thankfully we were able to keep small amounts of water down as we began our trek down the mountain. Our guides set up a "resting" site about three hours down the mountain where we hiked to, skipping a ruin that is typically seen. There was a bit of delirium on dad and our oldest's part but we did eventually make it to this make-shift campsite where we slept for an hour or two before pushing the final two hours to Machu Picchu. By this point, things were looking better as descending was eliminating some of the altitude sickness and fluids were being maintained. We were able to keep a liter or so of water down and, though tired, we no longer feared not making it. We moved slowly and tried to enjoy the scenery and our last day of the hike together.

Machu Picchu was worth the effort though!  Our final steps were called "Gringo Killers" and we entered the Sun Gate on a beautiful day. We didn't get to enter the city as our tour was scheduled for the following day, but we walked up to the entrance and took photos and embraced the amazing journey we had completed. Other than getting sick, our trek was outstanding and we really enjoyed the whole adventurewith adversity securing a solid memory.

"Gringo Killers" - final steps before the Sun Gate

We made it!  Our view of Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate!

Panoramic from Sun Gate

View from the Sun gate - the switch back road is what buses take

Hiking down from the Sun Gate 

We were originally scheduled to camp our last night just outside of town.  However, in learning some of the details of this camp location, we had opted to find a hostel in town.  What a relief to be in a bed, to get a somewhat decent night's sleep (the Peruvians were partying all night), and to have warm showers after the episodes of the previous night!

The next morning we opted to sleep in a bit and had breakfast at 7:30 and took the bus up the mountain to get our tour of Machu Picchu with our guide. He explained the various temples, rocks, restoration work and history of this amazing site. We then walked around on our own for about an hour and a half before catching the train back to Uramtambo where a bus took us back to Cusco. We had one final dinner at a restaurant we already knew to be outstanding, slept well in a hotel and were ready to leave at 5:45AM for our 8AM flight to Lima. In Lima we had our first Starbucks in 9 weeks before parting ways with Ray as we headed to LA for a couple of nights with grandparents before heading on to New Zealand.

Morning views of Machu Picchu

Dad & the boys

The guys at Machu Picchu

More photos of it all:

Roof Architecture

Water drainage

Sun dial at top

View from Terrace

A favorite photo!

Train!!

Train!!